Audi Q7: Repair Information
Shock Absorber Leaks
Vehicles with Coil Springs
Shock Absorbers are frequently rejected and exchanged
because of leaks. Examinations on the test stand and on the
vehicle have shown that the replacement of a large number of
rejected shock absorbers was not justified.
Slight leaking of oil ("sweating") at piston rod seal is no
reason to replace a shock absorber. A shock absorber damp with
oil is OK under the following circumstances:
Note
Minor oil excretion is advantageous since piston rod oil
seal gets lubricated, which increases service life. This applies
to shock absorbers on the front and rear axles.
- Oil leakage (shaded in illustration
-arrow-) is visible, but dull, matte and possibly dry due
to dust.
- One-sided oil or dirt film formation, no dripping.
A shock absorber is not OK under the following
circumstances:
- Dripping -arrow-, completely
coated with oil film
- A wet oil film that runs down the pipe indicates a leaky
shock absorber. A replacement is required in this instance.
Shock Absorbers, Checking when Removed
Vehicles with Coil Springs
Defective shock absorbers are noticeable when driving due to
loud rumbling noises - a result of wheel hopping - especially on
poor stretches of road. Moreover, they can be recognized by a
large loss of oil.
Note
Shock absorbers are maintenance-free, shock absorber oil
cannot be filled.
A removed shock absorber can be checked by hand as follows:
- Push the shock absorber together by hand.
- Piston rod must move with even resistance throughout entire
stroke and without jerking.
- Release piston rods.
- For shock absorbers with sufficient gas pressure, the piston
rod returns automatically to its starting position.
Note
- If this is not the case, the shock absorber does not
necessarily need to be replaced. As long as oil loss is not
large, the effectiveness represents that of a standard shock
absorber.
- The damping function is also completely available without
gas pressure, as long as there is no large loss of oil. However,
this can increase the noise level.
Shock Absorbers, Checking on Shock Tester
Equipment Level with Bolts or Air Suspension
Shock absorbers can be checked while installed using the
shock tester (shock absorber testing device). The damping effect
can be evaluated based on the dial reading or printout.
Special tools and workshop equipment
required
- Maha Shock Absorber Tester -VAS1990S-, Suspension Strut Test
Bed -VAS6636-, or -VAS6640 Suspension Strut Test Bed-
- Suspension Strut Test Bed -VAS6636-
- Suspension Strut Test Bed -VAS6640-
Test Requirements
- Temperature 10 through 40 ºC (50 through 104 ºF).
- Driver in vehicle.
- Tire pressure OK
- Drive vehicle straight onto center of wheel contact plates.
- Front wheels in straight position.
- Mechanical parking brake not engaged, foot brake not
pressed.
Threshold
Shock absorber condition can only be judged as follows:
- Sufficient damping effect
or
- Insufficient damping effect
Note
- Intermediate values for reduced damping performance cannot
be read out.
- A prognosis on service life is not permitted.
- Measured values that occur with the involvement of the
suspension travel end stops are incorrect.
The following values apply only to the test stands named
above. If the specified values are exceeded, the effect of the
shock absorber has weakened enough that a replacement is
recommended.
Example:
Threshold = 70
- a = greater than 70: insufficient damping effect
- a = less than 70: sufficient damping effect
The shock absorber combination installed in the vehicle is
indicated by the corresponding PR number on the vehicle data
plate.
Production Control Number (PR number) explanation. Refer to
→ Chapter "Production Control Number (PR Number) Explanations".
Threshold "a" in mm
Note
- If the readout value is greater than the threshold "a"
(table value): insufficient damping effect ⇒ replace shock
absorber.
- If the readout value is less than the threshold "a" (table
value): sufficient damping effect ⇒ shock absorber does not need
to be replaced.
- The level of a vehicle with air suspension is not important
for the test.
1) Value not yet determined
Guidelines for Clean Working Conditions
- Thoroughly clean connecting points and their surrounding
areas before loosening.
- Place removed parts on a clean surface and cover them so
that they do not get dirty. Use foil and paper. Only use
lint-free cloths.
- Only install clean parts: remove the replacement parts from
their packaging just before installing them.
- Use greases and sealants that are identified by part numbers
exclusively.
- Carefully cover or seal opened components if the repair is
not performed immediately.
Vehicles with Air Suspension
- Make sure that no dirt enters the pressure air system.
- Clean the area before removing connecting pieces for the air
pipe lines or other components of the pressured air system.
- Seal off any open compressed air lines and connections in
the pressure system immediately with plugs or cover them.
General Information
Caution
Risk of damaging the threads in the vehicle body.
- The bolts and nuts at all suspension parts must not
be loosened or tightened with an impact wrench.
- Always install the bolts and nuts by hand for the
first few turns.
- When installing waxed components, contact surfaces must be
cleaned. Contact surfaces must be free of wax and grease.
- Welding or adjustment procedures are not permitted on
load-bearing or wheel-controlling components.
- Always avoid the following actions with coil springs: Hammer
strokes, welding beads, applying color identification later.
- Do not perform any welding or grinding (separating work)
near coil springs or suspension struts. Cover coil springs or
suspension struts if necessary.
- When loosening or removing and installing hydraulic,
pneumatic lines or wires, draw sketches or take pictures. This
ensures installation is the same as the original.
- If the cable ties, brackets or mounting elements were
removed during the repair procedure, they must be installed at
their original location that corresponds to the series
production.
- Lightly coat the splines on the outer joint with assembly
paste before installing the outer joint into the wheel hub.
Refer to the Parts Catalog.
- Never allow the drive axle just to hang loose under the
vehicle or to bend them at the joints.
- Vehicles without a drive axle must not be moved, otherwise
the wheel bearing will be damaged. If a vehicle must be moved,
be sure to note the following:
- Install an outer joint in place of the drive axle.
- Tighten the outer joint to 200 Nm.
- Bonded rubber bushings have a limited range of motion. Only
tighten suspension bolts when vehicle is in curb weight position
or at standard vehicle height.
- Lifting the wheel bearing in curb weight position (refer to
→ Chapter "Wheel Bearing in Curb Weight Position, Lifting
Vehicles with Coil Spring") or at standard vehicle
height (refer to
→ Chapter "Wheel Bearing at Standard Vehicle Height, Lifting
Vehicles with Air Suspension").
- Always replace bonded rubber bushings on both sides of
vehicle.
- If the vehicle must still have an axle alignment, only
tighten the bolts and nuts that were loosened when making
adjustments to the tightening specification. Tighten the bolts
and nuts to the specified additional tightening angle after the
alignment/adjustment is complete.
WARNING
Risk of accident!
If vehicle will be driving on the streets, all bolts
and nuts must be tightened properly!
General Repair Information
A series of significant general notes for individual repair procedures, that
would otherwise be given many times at various points throughout the repair
manual, is listed here. They apply to this repair manual.
Contact Corrosion
Contact corrosion can occur if incorrect fasteners (bolts,
nuts, washers, etc.) are used.
For this reason, only fasteners with a special surface
coating are installed.
In addition, rubber or plastic parts and adhesives are made
of non-conductive materials.
If there are doubts whether a part should be used again,
install a new part according to the Parts Catalog.
Note:
- The use of original replacement parts is recommended, since
they are tested and are compatible with aluminum.
- The use of Audi accessories is recommended.
- Contact corrosion damage is not covered under warranty!
Steering Gear
Extreme caution, cleanliness, and properly functioning tools are an essential
requirement in performing a faultless and successful steering gear repair. The
general safety precautions also always apply when servicing the vehicle.
Seals and Gaskets
- Always replace seals and gaskets.
- After removing seals, inspect contact surface on housings
and shafts for burrs and damage and repair if necessary.
- Remove the sealant residue from the fluid seals from sealing
surfaces.
Bolts and Nuts
- Loosen and tighten the bolts and nuts from the covers and
housings diagonally.
- Do not cant but loosen and tighten especially sensitive
parts in diagonal manner in stages, for example servo motor with
control module.
- Tightening specifications for non-lubricated bolts and nuts
are given.
- Always replace self-locking nuts and bolts.
- Always replace the bolts and nuts, which are tightened with
an additional turn.
Electrical Components
Surely everyone has been shocked at one time or another when
coming into contact with a metal object. The reason for this is
the build-up of static electricity in the human body. This
charge can cause malfunctions if it contacts the electrical
components of the steering gear.
- Touch a grounded object, such as, a water pipe or a vehicle
hoist, before working on electrical components. Do not make
direct contact with the connector terminals.
Damaged Threads in Longitudinal Member, Repairing (Subframe to Body)
Procedure for repairing a damaged thread.
Wheel Bearing in Curb Weight Position, Lifting Vehicles with Coil
Spring
Special tools and workshop equipment
required
- Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931-
- Tensioning Strap -T10038-
- Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support -T10149-
Note
All chassis component bolts with bonded rubber bushings must
be tightened in curb weight position. Refer to
→ Chapter "Vehicles with Coil Springs, Checking the Curb Weight
Position for Axle Alignment".
- Bonded rubber bushings have a limited range of motion. Axle
components with bonded rubber bushings must be brought into the
position they will be in when driving before they are tightened
(curb weight position).
- Otherwise, the bonded rubber bushing will have tension,
which will reduce the service life.
- By raising the corresponding suspension using the Engine and
Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- and Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel
Hub Support -T10149-, this position can be simulated on the
hoist.
Procedure
- Before starting the procedure, determine the measurement
-a-, for example with tape measure,
from the center of the wheel to the lower edge of the
fender/wheel housing.
Note
The measurement must take place in curb weight position.
- Note the measurement. This will be needed when tightening
the bolts/nuts.
Front Axle:
- Engine must be installed.
Rear Axle:
WARNING
Risk of accident!
A vehicle that is not secured can slide off the
hoist.
- Before lifting the suspension, the vehicle must secured to
the lifting arms on the hoist -arrow B-
using the Tensioning Strap -T10038- over the striker pin
-arrow A-.
- Place a piece of foam rubber -1-
between the side sill and the Tensioning Strap -T10038- and then
tension the Tensioning Strap -T10038-.
Note
Be careful not to scratch the side sill.
Continuation for Axles:
- Remove the front wheel. Refer to
→ Chapter "Wheels and Tires".
- Turn the wheel hub, until the wheel bolt hole is on top.
Caution
Risk of destroying the wheel bearing when installing
the wheel bolt.
So that the installed wheel bolt cannot push against
the wheel bearing, it (the bolt) must be installed with
a washer inserted in between.
- Install the Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support
-T10149- with a wheel bolt -2- and
inserted washer -1- on the wheel
hub.
Note
Tightening of the applicable bolts/nuts must only occur if
the dimension a that was measured before installation has been
attained between the center of the wheel hub and the lower edge
of the fender/wheel housing.
- Insert the Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support
-T10149- in the Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- and lift the
wheel bearing housing until the dimension
-a- is reached.
WARNING
Risk of accident!
- Do not lift or lower the vehicle when the Engine and
Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- is under the vehicle.
- Do not leave the Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931-
under the vehicle any longer than necessary.
- Tighten the applicable bolts and nuts.
- Lower the wheel bearing housing.
- Move the Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- to the side
- Remove the Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support
-T10149-.
Wheel Bearing at Standard Vehicle Height, Lifting Vehicles with Air
Suspension
Special tools and workshop equipment
required
- Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931-
- Tensioning Strap -T10038-
- Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support -T10149-
Note
All chassis component bolts with bonded rubber bushings must
be tightened at standard vehicle height. Refer to
→ Chapter "Standard Vehicle Height for Axle Alignment on
Vehicles with Air Suspension, Checking".
- Bonded rubber bushings have a limited range of motion. Axle
components with bonded rubber bushings must be brought into the
position they will be in when driving before they are tightened
(standard vehicle height).
- Otherwise, the bonded rubber bushing will have tension,
which will reduce the service life.
- By raising the corresponding suspension using the Engine and
Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- and Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel
Hub Support -T10149-, this position can be simulated on the
hoist.
Procedure
- Before starting the procedure, determine the measurement
-a-, for example with tape measure,
from the center of the wheel to the lower edge of the
fender/wheel housing.
Note
- The dimension -a- = the
standard vehicle height depends on the suspension installed.
Refer to
→ Chapter "Standard Vehicle Height for Axle Alignment on
Vehicles with Air Suspension, Checking".
- The measurement must take place at standard vehicle height.
- Note the measurement. This will be needed when tightening
the bolts/nuts.
Front Axle:
- Engine must be installed.
Rear Axle:
WARNING
Risk of accident due to the vehicle sliding off the
hoist.
When lifting the vehicle on the hoist the full
spring force of the air suspension remains. To bring the
wheel bearing into the standard vehicle height the
spring force of the air suspension must be completely
removed by bleeding the system.
- Before lifting the suspension, the vehicle must secured to
the lifting arms on the hoist -arrow B-
using the Tensioning Strap -T10038- over the striker pin
-arrow A-.
- Place a piece of foam rubber -1-
between the side sill and the Tensioning Strap -T10038- and then
tension the Tensioning Strap -T10038-.
Note
Be careful not to scratch the side sill.
Continuation for Axles:
- Remove the air suspension system. Refer to
→ Chapter "Air Suspension System, Filling and Bleeding".
- Remove the front wheel. Refer to
→ Chapter "Wheels and Tires".
- Turn the wheel hub, until the wheel bolt hole is on top.
Caution
Risk of destroying the wheel bearing when installing
the wheel bolt.
So that the installed wheel bolt cannot push against
the wheel bearing, it (the bolt) must be installed with
a washer inserted in between.
- Install the Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support
-T10149- with a wheel bolt -2- and
inserted washer -1- on the wheel
hub.
Note
Tightening of the applicable bolts/nuts must only occur if
the dimension a that was measured before installation has been
attained between the center of the wheel hub and the lower edge
of the fender/wheel housing.
- Insert the Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support
-T10149- in the Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- and lift the
wheel bearing housing until the dimension
-a- is reached.
WARNING
Risk of accident!
- Do not lift or lower the vehicle when the Engine and
Gearbox Jack is under the vehicle.
- Do not leave the Engine and Gearbox Jack under the
vehicle any longer than necessary.
- Tighten the applicable bolts and nuts.
- Lower the wheel bearing housing.
- Move the Engine and Gearbox Jack -VAS6931- to the side
- Remove the Engine/Gearbox Jack Adapter - Wheel Hub Support
-T10149-.
Note
- The vehicle may be removed from the vehicle hoist only after
the air springs have been filled again.
- Before filling the air spring, check the installation
position. Refer to
→ Fig. "Air Spring Installed Position".
READ NEXT:
Front Gas-Filled Shock Absorbers, Venting and Draining
Special tools and workshop equipment
required
Hand drill
3 mm diameter drill bit.
6 mm diameter drill bit
Oil collecting container
Protect
Subframe
Caution
There is a risk of damaging the threads on the subframe
threaded connection to the body.
The subframe bolts on the body must not be loosened or
tightened with an impact w
SEE MORE:
1 - Mount
For headlamp.
Removing and installing. Refer to
→ Electrical Equipment; Rep. Gr.94; Headlamps Removing and Installing.
2 - Mounting Bracket with Release Cable
For the hook release lever
Overview. Refer to
→ Chapter "Overview - Release
Special tools and workshop equipment
required
Generator Belt Socket -3310-
Inner hex socket 8 mm or TORX
T50
Removing
- Remove the generator if necessary. Refer to
→ Electrical Equipment; Rep. Gr.27; Generator; Generator,
Removing and Installing.
- For some engine t